Istanbul is haunted by its doppelgängers. Poised between Europe and Asia, the city straddles both the Greco-Roman and the Ottoman-Islamic legacies that shape our world today. This course will walk students through Istanbul's streets and neighborhoods as they've been written by the living voices of those legacies: the city's natives (primarily Greeks and Turks) as well as the internal migrants, refugees, and exiles who've found their way there over the past century. Through fiction, film and essay, we'll explore the complicated histories of violence and co-existence that define Istanbul's several selves, at the crossroads of East and West.